Twirling my way into a new work week…

I love making clothes that instantly lift my mood when I wear them. The Wattle Skirt by Megan Nielsen is one of those pieces. As soon as I put in on all I wanted to do was dance, spin and twirl.

Wattle Skirt

This was my first time sewing a Megan Nielsen pattern and I was not disappointed. The pattern was well notched and the instructions clear to understand and follow.

This skirt is another one of those great mid week makes. The total cut and sew time for me was about 2 hours.

For this skirt I chose a yarn dye linen / cotton check from The Fabric Store. I am slightly obsessed with checks at the moment so it seemed like the perfect choice. However, it did take a little work lining up the checks at center front and back. I was worried about the finished look of how the checks crossed over but I think there is enough fullness in the skirt for it not to be offensive.

After reviewing the fit measurements on the pattern I decided not to make a toile as I was a perfect size 8 in relation to the measurements provided. Also given the shape of the skirt I knew I could easily take it in if it happened to be a little big.

This pattern is a great option for the beginner sewer. It is simple to make but has visual impact when worn. Entry into the skirt is via the button tab at the waist into the pocket. I chose metal buttons so they became a feature of the skirt. Side slant pockets also give the skirt an effortlessly cool finishing touch.

I felt extremely feminine wearing this skirt and it can be worn back with multiple tops in my wardrobe. On this occasion I have styled with a recent purchase from Zara TRF collection. My sneakers where kicked to the curb for this make to make way for a slightly more girly shoe.

I will definitely re make this skirt at some point in a soft and floaty ditsy print.

My love affair with the Jumpsuit 💙

When I reflect on the trends that have caught my eye in 2018 a few things come to mind. These include the following:

  1. Linen
  2. Button through
  3. Jumpsuits
  4. Bias cut skirts
  5. Silks & satins

The above trends have influenced my return to sewing in November this year with Linen being my textile of choice. In particular the mid weight linens available through The Fabric Store. Their colour choices are outstanding and their customer service is second to none.

For my final make of 2018 I decided to do a hack of the Yari Jumpsuit by True Bias. I wanted to give the jumpsuit a slight utilitarian look that is so on trend at the moment. I started with the sleeveless version of the pattern and added 4cm through the waist, a 3cm wide belt channel and 2cm self fabric waist tie. I widened the leg slightly and added a 15cm side split at the hem.

Yari Jumpsuit
Side seam split

The front and back panel lines, neck and front placket have been finished with twin needle top stitching for added detail. To give the garment it’s final finished look I have used the “one of a kind” woven label by Kylie And The Machine.

Chambray Jumpsuit
Top stitching detail

I managed to squeeze in a trip to The Fabric Store in Brisbane a week ago and for this make selected the 100% cotton chambray fabrication. It is a light to mid weight chambray that drapes well on the body. After a few more softening washes in the machine it will be the perfect jumpsuit.

Yari Jumpsuit
Style with your favourite tee

The number of jumpsuits in my wardrobe has significantly increased this year. They are such a wardrobe warrior and can be worn in every season in my home city, Gold Coast, Australia. Add a T shirt to change up the look for spring or wear with an oversized jacket in the cooler months. As always style with your favourite kicks for that cool and casual look.

Winter look
Style with an oversized jacket in the cooler months

That’s a wrap for 2018. I absolutely can not wait to share more makes with this fabulous maker community in 2019. It brings so much joy to my heart that patterning, sewing and making is alive and vibrant at this time.

Merry Christmas makers and shakers 💃

I couldn’t resist a remake of my Fiona Sundress by Closet Case Patterns for Christmas Day this year. Linen button through dresses are so current right now and this dress ticks all the boxes for a very fashionable make. The Fabric Store absolutely spoils us for choice when it comes to linen. I chose the mid weight Vintage Brick Red from their on line store but could make this dress again and again in every colour of the rainbow. Finished of with faux tortoises shell buttons from Spotlight Stores, I love the look and fit of this dress.

Fiona Sundress
My Christmas dress for 2018.

There is so much to think about when selecting your attire for Christmas lunch. You want a dress that is flattering to your body type but also allows room to fill your belly with all that yummy Christmas food. This dress was the perfect selection for me. Having spent time refining the fit on my first make, this dress has just the right amount of room to be comfortable even after an over indulging lunch.

We love our Converse
Converse shoes all round 👟

This is one of those makes that I strongly advise making a toile and spend the time to get the fit right. If you do this you will have a pattern for life. For those of you that missed my first blog post on the Fiona Sundress I had to take the waist in quite a bit, add to the bust through the front bodice panel lines and add into the hip. I added two darts into the back skirt and two small darts into the front skirt that are hidden by the pockets. This enable me to achieve the shaping I needed into the waist.

My sewing tip for this dress is to use your sewing machine to sew all the buttons on. You will save so much time. You can sew buttons on using you machine by removing the foot, changing to zig zag and reduce the stitch length to zero. Hand wind your machine for the first two stitches to ensure you have your stitch width correct and then use the pedal. I do six zig zag stitches per button, pull one front thread through to the back of the button, tie off with the two back threads and cut the threads. It’s sew easy. Just make sure your fingers are out of the way!

Quick & Easy Evie Bias Skirt | Tessuti Fabrics

This is the quickest and easiest make I’ve made since my return to sewing. Bias skirts are everywhere right now so I decided to add one to my me made wardrobe. The Evie Bias Skirt fit the bill perfectly and I have been eager to use one of Tessuti Fabrics patterns since I read a blog post on their pattern style. Their patterns are hand drafted and hand graded. I absolutely love the authenticity of this and also agree you get shaping that is difficult to achieve using CAD technology. Not only are the patterns hand graded but the instructions are beautifully typed and photographed.

Evie Bias Skirt

I may have messed up slightly on my fabric choice for this make. Although I love the abstract spot print and colours the fabric weight and drape is not 100% suited to this style. As a result, I did take the skirt in slightly as it didn’t collapse and drape around the body as it may have in a lighter weight fabric. That gives me a reason to remake this skirt at some other time is a softer, dreamier fabrication…….

Evie Bias Cut Skirt
Evie Bias Cut Skirt
Me Made Everyday
Evie Bias Cut Skirt
Evie Bias Cut Skirt
Me Made Everyday

Burnside Bibs Baby✌🏼 by Sewhouse 7

I have been stalking this make on Instagram for a while. I loved the cool casual look they embody and from the moment I saw them I knew I was going to make a pair for myself.

Falling in love with this design was the easy part. Finding the perfect fabric was the hardest.  I don’t know about anybody else but I am very good at second guessing my fabric choices.  I can spend hours searching the internet looking for options and just when I think I find the perfect fabrication doubt starts creeping in.  Am I sure it’s the right colour, will have the right drape, what will the colour actually look like in reality and will it be the correct weight.  The list of doubts keep flooding in.

Burnside Bibs

Unlike buying clothes from traditional retail outlets, making your own clothes requires a leap of faith.  Once you choose your fabric and pattern, you just have to cross your fingers and hope the end product works out to be a wearable item.  You don’t have the liberty of trying it on and not purchasing if it doesn’t look good or is not quite what you imaged it to be.  Once the investment is made in fabric and pattern you are stuck with the end product.  I think this is why I put so much pressure on myself to make the right decision.

I remember growing up in a household where the majority of our clothes where home made.  My mother was a beautiful sewer.  I would beg for store brought purchases and my Mum’s standard reply was “I can make it for half the price”.  If only that where true theses days.  It would relieve some of the pressure of making the perfect fabric and pattern choice.  These days a home sewn wardrobe is not a cheaper alternative but it is definitely a more satisfying way of dressing.

Back to my Burnside Bibs.  I opted for the downloadable PDF pattern and printed onto AO size at my local printer.  I took a leap of faith with this pattern given its oversized nature and didn’t make a toile. After reading the sizing and finished measurement of this pattern I was also able to figure out I am a true fit to Sew House 7 sizing.

Burnside Bibs
Sipping tea in my Burnside Bibs ✌🏼.

I am super savvy with my pattern lays and was able to cut the size 8 of Option B full length out using 2.5mts of fabric.  My fabric selection was 56” 57% linen 43% cotton Heritage Check from The Fabric Store (looks like it is almost out of stock).  I have to be honest, I doubted my fabric choice once my package arrived but now that my garment is complete I love my fabric choice.

Sewing my Burnside Bibs was a pleasurable task as the patterns where well notched and the sewing instructions where easy to understand. And thankfully when I finished sewing them they fit me perfectly.  I did reduce the width of the hem turn to keep the length I wanted and when I make them again I will add 4cm length so I can finish with a nicer hem.

My other obsession at the moment is the woven labels by Kylie And The Machine to finish off my home made pieces.  They are so damn cute!  I was so hasty at sewing the label into my Burnside Bibs that I sewed it to the front instead of the back.  Now every time I go to the loo when I wear this piece I am reminded that not only is my version of the Burnside Bibs one of a kind but I too am one of a kind!

FIONA SUNDRESS by Closet Case Patterns

I get so darn excited when I finish a sewing project that I just have to share it straight away.   Ideally I would love to take the time to write my blog post before sharing so I don’t have to re post the same garment again.  Maybe one day I’ll get the process around the right way. Or maybe not…..

This was my first time sewing a pattern by Closet Case Patterns and I am super impressed.  Instead of opting for the PDF downloadable pattern this time I decided to wait for the printed pattern to come via snail mail.  I love the watercolour illustrations on their pattern covers and wanted to see one first hand.  I’m so glad I did as there was a little surprise inside of a woven label to sew into my garment.  It’s the finishes touches that count.

My Fiona Sundress was made in a mid weight linen from The Fabric Store in the colour denim blue. The buttons are shell buttons from Spotlight Stores.

I’m sure there are a tonne of blog posts out there on constructing and fitting your Fiona Sundress.  I’m hoping to offer some new content on the construction of this garment.  I love efficiency and always approach garment construction from an efficiency perspective.  I read the instructions but never follow the instructions as a step by step process but instead group my sewing into tasks.

Fiona Sundress

Below are my steps for sewing the Fiona Sundress.  These are an outline only and you can use them in conjunction with the original instruction book if necessary for the detail.  Or they are great to use if you have made the Fiona Dress more than once and want to make it in a more time efficient way.

Group 1:  Iron fusing onto all required pieces.

Group 2:  Overlock all vertical seams on bodice pieces, and pocket facing outer edge.  Move to sewing machine.

Group 3:  Sew all bodice panels together, sew darts in front & back skirt, sew pocket facing onto pockets – trim seams and under stitch, sew straps, sew front & back bodice bands.  Move to iron.

Group 4:  Press bodice seams open, press darts towards side seam, press pocket facing & pocket seam allowance along inner & lower edge, turn straps to right side & press, press seams open on bodice bands.  Press seam allowance under on lower edge of non fused bodice band. Move to machine.

Group 5:  Top stitch pocket facing to pocket, top stitch straps.  Pin pockets to front skirt and stitch down. Move to overlocker.

Group 6:  Overlock skirt side seams.  Move to sewing machine.

Group 7:  Sew side seams together.  Move to iron and press seams open.  Move to sewing machine.

Group 8:  Sew straps to fused bodice band, sew fused bodice band to front bodice, sew bodice to skirt. Move to iron and press seams.


Group 9:  Stitch remaining bodice band to dress, top stitch bodice band down.  Move to Iron.

Group 10:   Press hem & hem turn, press centre front facing.  Move to machine.

Group 11:  Top stitch hem & front facing.

Group 12:  Mark button hole positions, sew button holes, cut button holes, mark button position, sew buttons on (I do this with my sewing machine – see sewing tip on Yari Jumpsuit blog post)


Fiona Sundress

Thankfully I was patient enough to make a tiole of this dress in calico first as it did require a few fitting adjustments for my body shape.  I started with the size 8 pattern but had to add a little bit of room into the hips and bust and reduce the waist quite a bit.  As you can see from the image below the original fit was not great for my body.  The dress was also saggy at the back side.

First fit of my Fiona Sundress

The online pattern adjustment guide for the Fiona Sundress made the bust adjustment really easy.  To achieve a good fit through my waist and across my butt I decided to add an additional two darts to the back skirt.  I also lengthened the middle back darts slightly.  If I had taken all of the excess through the two back darts the dart point would have been quite severe and the final shaping not as smooth.

Adding 2 more darts to the back skirt

I’m not sure about anybody else, but fitting on yourself can be quite difficult. Especially when it comes to fit issues on the back of the garment.  I mark all of my adjustments on my calico tiole before transferring it to the fit stand for final analysis.

Be sure to transfer all of the pattern notches onto your edited pattern pieces. You will be grateful you took the time to do this during the sewing process.

#ochrechallenge AND practicing patience

Patience | the capacity to accept or tolerate delay, problems, or suffering without becoming annoyed or anxious.

Sewing and patience go hand in hand. This project was a friendly reminder of that. Have you ever worked on a project where it feels like everything is going wrong and nothing is working out? There were many moments through out this project that I felt exactly that. Thankfully I had a little voice in my head that reminded me of patience and the importance of practicing patience. I was able to take a step back, rethink what I was doing, breathe, slow down and end up with a summertime set that I am really proud of. Maybe slightly more cropped than I had imagined, but oh well 🤷🏻‍♀️, it’s nearly summertime here down under.

Twining is winning

This is my entry for the #memade #ochrechallenge and I am in love with the new #twinset to hit my wardrobe. This beautiful, mid weight linen was purchased from the The Fabric Store and the pattern was created by me using my skirt block and a touch of guess work and free hand for the top.

I really want this blog post to be less about the overall making experience of this summertime combo and more about the emotional roller coaster that comes with creating. The whole process of coming up with a design, choosing the fabrics, patterning & testing your design, making the finished product and putting out there for the whole world to see (and very few actually see it 😂😂) can be quite daunting. For me anyway. You are bearing your soul through your craft and fear can be a killer.

I wanted to create an outfit that screamed minimal simplicity & effortlessly cool. This was a long way from the place I started. I have a tendency to over design. To create outfits that have an impact and wow factor but then end up in the back of my wardrobe to never see the light of day.

I was so excited about my original top design. It had big puffy sleeves with an 80’s vibe and a fitted cropped crossover bodice. Three toiles of the top later it was time to take five and reassess the direction of this design. Who was I kidding. I would never wear that top in public. It was certainly not minimal simplicity nor effortlessly cool.

Original top design

Looking back through my inspiration pages it became clear that the right top was a simple tie front top that could also be a wrap top. It would make the perfect partner to my wrap skirt. Round four of toiling began. This time it went off without a hitch. A few adjustments where required for both the skirt and top but I was able to make those adjustments and move to cutting in my final fabrication.

However, the actual sewing process didn’t run that smoothly. After sewing right sides to wrong side, overstitching darts, unpicking, pinning facings on incorrectly I heard that little voice in my head again. Patience.


There are few things we do in this life that require us to be truly present. Sewing is one of those things for me. Yoga is another. To do a beautiful job I have to be fully focused on what I am doing or the mistakes creep in. Each step is important. To build a beautiful garment you need a good pattern and the right fabric. You have to be willing to change course if something is not working out, to unpick when something is not sewn well, to press each and every seam as you go.

Tie top to wrap top

Through practicing patience I was able to create an outfit that I am really happy with and will get worn a lot over the coming summer months. The skirt is going to be a great all year round piece in my wardrobe when styles with a chunky knit in the cooler months.

Sunday summertime stylingWinter styling

Sewing Tip

I’m a big fan of block fusing.  It saves time and beats trying to line up your main fabric with your fusing at the ironing board.  It also saves your iron and iron cover from getting covered it fusing glue.

Cut a square or rectangle of fabric big enough to fit all of your fused pieces and a piece of fusing slightly smaller. Iron your fusing to the fabric in a block.

Iron fusing to main fabric in a block

Then you can cut out you fused pieces in one go.  No more fiddling at the ironing board!



The Yari Jumpsuit

This week I sewed my first ever pattern from True Bias.  I was beyond excited when I stumbled across the Yari Jumpsuit on The Fabric Store blog two weeks ago. I knew from the moment I saw it that I needed that Jumpsuit in my life sooner rather than later.

A good Jumpsuit has become a wardrobe staple. I love that you can wear the Yari Jumpsuit super casual or style it up with heals and an evening jacket.  A multipurpose wardrobe is an efficient wardrobe!

Until recently I didn’t even realise that there was such a thing as downloadable, print at home patterns. In all honesty, I have been completely naive to the amazing network of home sewers and pattern makers that share their knowledge and creativity through online channels. I am amazed at the numbers of indie pattern labels that exist and can’t wait to bring more of their amazing work to life, adding in my Marsha Style hacks along the way.

The print at home pattern for the Yari Jumpsuit was a total of 66 A4 tiles that where glued together to create the pattern. Due to my limited space at home I glued sections and cut out pieces as they became complete. I found the process quite satisfying. It took a total time of two glasses of my favourite Rosé to complete the task.  I have since discovered my local Officeworks prints AO size and will definitely take that route next time.

While the cost of the downloadable pattern is cheaper than the printed version, the added costs of printing does make these patterns quite exy.  However, in saying this, the shipping costs and time delays when purchasing a printed pattern from the other side of the world are also significant.  My personal choice hands down is the instant gratification of the downloadable pattern.  Also as a pattern maker myself I appreciate the time and effort these small indie pattern labels put into creating their patterns.

My fabric choice was a mid weight linen from The Fabric Store in Gravel. Big shout out to The Fabric Store for their super speedy delivery.  The width of the fabric was 52” so I opted to buy 3.25mts. I made the Yari Jumpsuit in a US size 6 (equivalent to AU size 10) and was able to cut the pattern from 2.75mts.

I highly recommend laying your entire pattern prior to cutting to figure out your best possible yield. Fabric is money and should be used wisely with minimal wastage.


The Yari Jumpsuit pattern was notched very well and the sewing instructions where very clear and easy to follow. To achieve a great finish on your garment be sure to press seams as you go. I am a big avocate of pressing my hems before sewing as well.

It took me approximately 4hrs to cut and sew my Jumpsuit as well as the two glasses of wine to glue and cut the printable pattern. I am so happy with the end result and have already thought of how I am going to sew my Yari Jumpsuit next time and add a little Marsha Style twist to it.

I am quite long in the torso so next time around I am going to add about 2.5cm length through the waist just to drop the crotch slightly.  Otherwise the fit was spot on 👌🏼.


If you dislike hand sewing buttons as much as I do try sewing buttons on with your machine. It’s super easy. All you need to do is remove your foot, turn your machine to zig zag mode and reduce your stitch length to zero. Hold your button in place and lower the foot shank onto the button just behind the holes. Zig zag by hand for a couple of turns to ensure the machine is stitching from hole to hole and then put the pedal to the medal for approximately 8 stitches.  Your button is now secured with no hand stitching required.

My Summer Top

This is a great little top to tackle if you have worked with store bought patterns before and have a basic understanding of garment construction.  If you get a little lost at any point, breath and re read previous steps.  Once you get it and make it, you will love it.

You will need a tape measure, pins, pencil or pacer, rubber, ruler, triangle ruler if you own one, paper scissors (that will double as a paper weight) and some patterning paper (brown paper roll will also do the trick).

First steps is to measure your top of bust – so under the arms, around your back and across the top of your bust.  My measurement for this is 84cm.  Add 3cm to this measurement which is 87cm for this example.

So the side seams have enough room to get around the bust you want the front patter piece to be 5cm bigger than the front.  Stick with me here and work out what the front  and back measurements will be across the top.  In my example it will be 87cm – 5cm which equals 82cm.  Divide 82cm by 2 which equals 41cm.  The back bodice across the top will be 41cm.  The front bodice across the top will be 41cm + 5cm or 46cm.  To check your calculations add your front and back measurement together to make sure it equals the original measurement.  In my case 41cm + 46cm = 87cm.


STEP ONE:  Lets start by making the front bodice pattern.  The simplest way is to create your pattern piece is on the fold or on the half.  To get the measurement for the top of your half front pattern divide 46cm by 2 which equals 23cm.  Add 2cm to this line making it 25cm to start with

Draw a line down your page that which will be your centre front or fold line. You can make the length of your top what ever you want.  I’ve gone for a length that sits at the top of my hip bone which was 32cm.  From this draw a line at a 90 degree angle at the top 26cm long. At the bottom of the CF line draw another line at a right angles to mark the hem.  The top flares out slightly at the hem so I have added an extra 5cm making my front hem 23cm + 5cm equals 28cm.  See images below as a guide.

STEP 2:  The next step is to prepare your side bust dart position.  Dart are very important to create shape and contour for the body.  In the pattern making world there is a term called bust circ which refers to the area that your bust sits.  A general allowance for the bust circ is 7cm.  To identify bust level mark a line 7cm down from the top of your top pattern.  We want the dart to be an angled dart so mark a point 4cm down from this bust line at the side seam.  Mark a point along the bust line 8cm in from the side seam.  Draw a line from the mark on the side seam 4cm below the bust line to the dart point 8cm in from the side seam along the bust line.  Follow the image above.

STEP 3:  To create a dart you need to transfer the area of the dart into another part of the pattern.  We are going to create the bust dart by transferring the dart area into the top of the bodice around the area that the straps will join.  This is why we made the top line slightly longer at the beginning.

The next step is to mark the strap position at the top of the bodice.  My straps are going to be 2.5cm wide and sit 9.5cm in from the centre front.  This was a good position for the straps to cover my bra straps.  Finish this stage by drawing a line from dart point to the outside edge of the strap. See images above for further guidance.

You will need to cut out your paper pattern to create the dart.  Once your pattern has been cut out, cut along the angled lines that end at bust point but don’t quite cut through so you can spin the paper and create your dart.  See the first image above as an example.

STEP 4:  Pin your pattern to a new page and spin your dart to create a 3cm gap for the dart.  Once you have created you 3cm gap pin the top part of your pattern to the page ready to trace of your front pattern piece.  Marrk a point in the centre of your dart and draw a line from the dart point to past your side seam.  Extend the side seam down in a line to meet your Center day and then shape back to the side seam.  This will ensure your dart will fold down correctly when sewing.  Mark a point 3cm down from the old top of the side seam which will become the new side seam finish point and trace around your new front pattern piece.

STEP 5:  To straighten the front hem line once the garment is on the body I have added 3cm to the centre front body length at the hem.  This is shaped back to the side seam.  The final step is to add seam allowance to the front bodice pattern piece.  I have added 6mm to the top, 1cm to the side seam and 4cm to the hem.  At the hem I am going to do a 1cm turn followed by a 3cm fold to create a nice wide hem.

STEP 6:  The final step to finish your front bodice is to cut it out, mark you CF on the fold, notch your strap points & hem and finally label your pattern piece as per below



STEP 1:  Grab a fresh piece of paper and mark a straight vertical line that will be your Center back that is 29.5cm long.  From this line draw a line at a right angle at the top that is half your total back body measurement that you calculated at the beginning. In my case it was 41cm divided by 2, 21.5cm.

Draw another line at right angles to your centre back line at the bottom that is your half centre back measurement at the top plus 3cm.  21.5cm + 3cm = 24.5cm.  Connect this with the top back bodice.

Pattern making is all about angles.  So that your front bodice & back bodice have a nice flow through at the hem, raise the side seam at the hem by 0.5cm and redraw your hemline as per the image below.  This will prevent a point from forming at the hem.

STEP 2: Mark the position for the back button which is slightly less than half the total back bodice distance at the top.  My button position will be 9.5cm in from centre back and 1.5cm down from the top edge.  The next step is to add your seam allowance.  I have cut out my pattern and retraced due to all the writing on the pattern piece but you could add seam allowance to your existing pattern piece.

STEP 3: Add 6mm seam allowance to the top, 1cm to the side seam and 4cm to the hem to match the front bodice pattern piece.

STEP 4:  The final step is to cut out and label your back pattern piece.



STEP 1:  Pin your front and back pattern pieces to a clean piece of paper and trace around the top half of the patterns.  I have made my facing pieces 13cm one at the side seams and centre back and 15cm long at the centre front.

STEP 2: Cut out and label your front and back facing pieces.  Depending on your fabric choice you may need to fuse your facing pieces.  My top was made in a mid weight cotton / linen blend so there was no need to fuse my lining pieces.

STEP 3:  The final pattern piece for this style is your straps.  My finished straps measurement was 45cm long x 2.5cm wide.  To achieve these finished measurements draw a rectangle 47cm x 7cm to allow SA 1cm seam allowance.


You now have all your pattern pieces ready to cut out your very own simple summer top.  Please see a quick overview of sewing instructions below.


This top really suits mid weight linen or linen / cotton blends.  If you use a mid weight / stable fabric there is no need to fuse your facing pieces.  You could also make this top in a plain or printed rayon or viscose.  I would recommend fusing your facing if you are going to use a lighter weight fabric such as this.

1. Sew front darts in front bodice and front bodice facing.

2. Sew front and back & front and back facing pieces together at side seams.  Overlock side seams and lower edge of facing.

3. Fold straps in half along the long edge and sew across one small side and along the long edge.  Turn straps in the right way and single needle edge stitch along long edges of strap and across the end.

4. Baste stitch straps right side of front bodice at notched points.

5. With right sides together sew the facing to the bodice along the top edge.  Understitch seam to facing and press well.

6. Stitch lower hem.  To do this I first iron the hem folded over at 4cm and the turn under another 1cm to give a clean finish.  Iron and pin hem to make stitching the hem easier.

7. Sew button hole on ends of straps and sew buttons to back body.

Your little summer top is now ready to wear.  Goodluck and please ask if you have any questions.