Introduction to the Leila PDF Pattern

When designing the Leila Dress I wanted to create a loose fitting tier dress that wasn’t a boxy shape.  This pattern has clever waist shaping and minimal gathers so you don’t feel completely consumed by the finished dress.  The Leila PDF pattern is now available through the PDF Pattern Shop.  Below are some details for the pattern

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Maxi length Leila Dress
Midi length Leila Slip

The Leila Dress is a mini or maxi length dress that is unlined. However, if your fabric requires lining this pattern also includes a pattern for the Leila Slip. The Leila Slip comes in a mini or midi length.

The Leila Dress features a V neckline with gathered tiers. The shorter version has 3 tiers, with the maxi length dress having 4 tiers. Entry to the dress is through the neck opening. There are optional ties that can be attached to the back of the dress to bring the waist in. The sleeve has gathers at the sleeve head and a gathered circular frill at the hem.

Midi length Leila Slip
Midi length Leila Slip

The Leila Slip also features a front V neckline with a straight back. The slip lines up with the dress to form the perfect lining slip or can be a dress in it’s own right. The slip comes in a mini or midi length. The midi length slip comes side splits. Try using grosgrain ribbon for shoulder straps. The neck edge is finished with a wide stitched down facing. Also consider using adjusters and sliders with your straps. You will need to increase the recommend strap length by 5cm (2” ) if you are adding adjusters and sliders.

This is an intermediate beginner pattern with the following sewing skills used. Gathering, neck facing and double turn finish to hem.

Leila PDF pattern
It’s a hack – Leila Slip + Leila Dress

There are many pattern hack options to be explored for this pattern. You could extend the 1st tier of the dress to convert the dress to a top. You can take tier 2, 3 and 4 and convert it into an elastic waist maxi skirt. Tier 4 can be shortened to create a midi length flowy dress instead of the maxi. The slip can be easily converted into a cami. You could mesh the slip and cami together to create a sleeveless dress with gathered tiers. So many options in one pattern. The sleeves from the Sia Dress will also fit the Leila Dress for further variations.

FABRIC
This dress and slip are best suited to a fabric that is soft and drapes well. Consider using light to mid weight fabrics such as: linen, linen blends, cotton & cotton gauze. For a softer silhouette consider polyester, viscose, rayon, Tencel, silk or blends of. The surface texture of a crepe or a crinkle is also a great option.

I have personally made this dress is a light weight linen, mid weight linen, cotton lawn, cotton gauze and rayon crepe.  I have made the slip dress in a viscose linen blend, light weight linen and viscose.  All of these fabric have worked beautifully to create different result.

NOTIONS
* fabric (meterage as noted below)
* coordinating thread
* 20cm light weight fusing

FABRIC YARDAGE-01Please note with yields that I have created tight pattern lays.  It is important to follow the cutting guides to ensure you won’t run out of fabric.  It does involve a lot of single layer cutting but I hate wasting fabric so they are tight.  Please make sure all your pieces will fit prior to cutting.

SIZE GUIDE

CB0D511C-1D2C-46F6-8406-2D95BD41F34D

PRICE

The Leila PDF pattern will be AU$12 (a little over US$8 at today’s rate).

Leila Mini Dress
Sneak peak of my latest Leila Dress….

The Wiksten Haori | My first ever repurposing project.

I have had the Wiksten Haori on my make list for quite some time and when the weather turned cool a few weeks ago it was time to bring it to the top of the list. I have been following the hashtag on Instagram for a while to really get a good feel for the jacket and the look and feel I wanted to achieve for mine.

I have purchased a piece of quilted cotton from Merchant and Mills that was a rather expensive fabric purchase for me. I had this piece of fabric ear marked for this jacket but want to be 100% sure the finished fit was what I wanted. I’m a big believer in testing patterns before I make them in my final selection fabric especially when I have high hopes for the finished garment. The let down of a finished garment in expensive fabric that’s just not working is real!

A few weeks ago I went all beige with our bedroom linen and decided our old bedspread would make the perfect toiling fabric for this project. The quilted bed spread has two sides, both of which I love equally so it made sense to not line may jacket and bind all the seams so I could wear the jacket either way. To keep with the re purposing feel I unpicked all the bind from the bed spread edge to finish all the seams of my jacket.

It once was a bed spread!

I am loving oversized long line jackets at the moment and decide to cut the M size jacket with was 2 sizes bigger than what the pattern recommended for my body measurements. I really want the donor jacket feel and something that I could rug up in on the couch at night.

It was a fairly simple sew given my jacket wasn’t lined but did take a little longer due to the binding of the seams. I also bound the pocket edges to keep the finish of the garment consistent. The bind from the bed spread edge was the perfect width to cover the seams. I overlocked the seams prior to binding them to reduce the thickness of the seams.

Inside out with bonded edges

I did run out of bind for the bottom hem and the white bind that I could find was quite stark in comparison. I tea stained the new bind to reduce the brightness of the white. It’s not perfect but it’s ok. And with some wash and wear it will age with the rest of the garment.

Right side out…

Conclusion….. I love that this jacket is made from something old and special. It is so warm (for Queensland weather anyway). I love that is reversible and ridiculous oversized. Will I use this pattern to sew my Merchant & Mills fabric? Probably but will it will be a hack!

The end!

The straight leg Dawn Jean by Megan Nielsen Patterns.

Meet my new favourite jeans. The straight leg version of the Dawn Jean by Megan Nielsen Patterns. If you like a high waisted jean the Dawn Jean is a great pattern.

Paired here with the Hilary Top by Tessuti Fabrics

I am no stranger to this pattern having previously made two pairs of the cropped flare. I have also made two pairs of the Persephone Pant by Anna Allen and felt my hand made wardrobe was swamped with versions of a cropped flare jean. I have been drawn to a Mom or straight leg jean lately that is still slightly cropped and thought I would give the straight leg version of the Dawn Jean a go.

Worn her with a RTW top and my home made Freya Sandals

Having toiled this pattern previously and over fitted on my second pair I decided to stick with the original pattern in the size 8 which is perfect for my measurements and shape. I measured the in leg length of my favourite store brought jeans I own to work out the ideal length for these jeans. It’s best to work with an in leg length as your rise height may very from jean to jean. The in leg length will give you a more accurate measurement to follow.

Front Pant

It is also important to cut all patterns in corduroy in the one direction. Corduroy is a one way fabric and the pile can be brushed up or down. I prefer to cut my corduroy with the pile direction brushing down towards the hem of the pant.

Back Pant

I purchased a piece of yummy vanilla coloured stretch corduroy during Potter & CO’s pre Christmas sale that has been waiting for the perfect project. It is 98% Cotton, 2 % Elastane which gives the pant just a nice little bit of movement for fit and food. The only adjustment I made was cutting the waistband on the opposite grain to that recommended on the pattern. I wanted the cord lines to run vertically and not horizontal on the waistband.

My biggest issue with sewing jeans in the past has been the topstitching. My machine has really struggled with this in the past always leaving me disappointed with the finish of the garment. The inside stitch tension was loose and messy. It finally occurred to me that I needed tightened the top thread tension on my machine. The ideal top tension on my machine for top stitching with a topstitching thread is 8. This has been a game changer and now the inside of my jeans is as beautiful as the outside.

Megan Nielsen Patterns also have great little hardware trims packages for purchase which gave my jeans that professional finish. I am a massive fan of matt tin trims and think this colour works beautifully with the vanilla coloured cord. After washing my jeans the vegan leather patch did change colour, lost some of it’s wording and became stiff but I don’t mind the change in appearance. Kylie And The Machine also has the cutest side tab labels that was perfect for the back pocket.

All the details

Megan’s pattern are impeccable and very professional. They are beautifully notched and the instructions are well written and clear. I also understand she has a comprehensive range of video tutorials to accompany her patterns. I have not watched or used them due to my extensive knowledge on construction but imagine they would be the perfect companion to those sewers taking on the challenge of sewing jeans for the first time.

Worn here with my Adelia Top by The Hemming

The thought off sewing jeans can seem daunting if you have not done it before. It is a project that will take time but the sense of accomplishment once you finish is amazing. These jeans are probably the best jeans I have ever made. I took my time and the details and finish are really satisfying. These jeans are a make that I am truly proud of.

Video Tutorial on how to sew the Sia Dress – View D unlined.

Video tutorials on how to sew the Sia Dress – view D unlined are now up on my website and ready for viewing and sewing along to.  You can click here to access the tutorials.

Sia Dress PDF Pattern

Part A takes you through the preparation stages where I share tips about fusing, making notches and drill holes. Then the fun part begins, sewing the bodice. I go through each step in detail and again share tips on how to achieve a great finish with your dress.  There are a ton of close up images on how to prepare and finish your binded neck edge to perfection.

Sia Dress PDF Pattern

Part B takes you through preparing the waist ties and sewing on the waistband of the dress. I share tips on how to achieve the perfect turned point on your ties and how to ensure your center front bodice pieces line up exactly at center front.

Sia Dress PDF Pattern

Part C takes shows you how to construct and insert the tie sleeves. Part D is how to sew your skirt with tips on sewing a stretch free pocket. Part E is connecting your skirt to the bodice and all of the finishing touches like inserting the perfect invisible zipper, sewing a beautiful double turned hem and sewing on buttons using your machine.

Sia Dress PDF Pattern

This is also the big reveal for my latest Sia Dress which I love. It has been made in a printed Anique Floral linen from Potter & Co. It is the perfect composition and weight to make an unlined version of the Sia Dress. If you are an intermediate beginner this type of fabric is perfect to sew a Sia Dress and start building on your sewing skills. And now that the video tutorials are here you will have the perfect support network to help you through this s sewing project.

Sia Dress PDF Pattern

The Sia Dress PDF Pattern is available by clicking here. The pattern comes in US2 to US22 or AU/UK 6-26. It has options for lining and comes in a mini or midi length. The pattern cost $AU12 which is a little less than $US8 at today’s exchange rate.

Sia Dress PDF Pattern

I really hope you find value in the video tutorials. I am always here to help if you have any questions that are not covered in the tutorials. You can get in contact with me via Instagram or clicking here.

Sia Dress PDF Pattern

Adjusting the Sia Dress bodice pattern

Over the weekend I created a series of videos on how to adjust the Sia Dress bodice pattern pieces.  I am very new to creating this type of content so please provide feedback on how I can improve this content moving forward.

The adjustments covered include:

  1. How to increase the V neck to create a more modest front bodice.
  2. How to shorten the front bodice.
  3. How to increase the front bodice.
  4. How to reduce the amount of fabric in the front pleat for a smaller bust size and how to increase the amount of fabric in the front pleat and front bodice at centre front for a larger bust size.

I have provided an introduction of the bodice to provide an understanding of how it was drafted and a summary of all of the adjustments at the end.

Processed with VSCO with av4 preset

Instructions include how to adjust the back bodice piece where necessary and also your front lining piece so all pattern pieces marry up.

Goodluck and please email me if you have any additional questions about adjusting the Sia Dress Pattern. I am here to help you achieve the best possible fit of this pattern for your body.

To video tutorials are available through the main menu or by clicking here.

The Sia Dress PDF pattern is available by clicking here.

Meet the Sia Dress pattern test team.

Taree @taree.marsh | Pattern Designer. Goes without saying I love the Sia Dress and it’s versatility as a pattern. It looks fabulous on a wide range of body types and also suits a wide range of ages. My intention was for this pattern to be all inclusive.

Kate @sewninbrunswick | I loved sewing this dress. I’m surprised that Taree went for something so technically involved for her first pattern! But it was a dream to sew, not at all difficult and a great pattern to take slowly.

Kate – View C

Natalia @nataliaholwerda | I loved making the Sia Dress and the slowsewing connected to it. The instructions were great (even for beginning sewist in my opinion) and so clear! I like that this pattern gives you a chance from making super fancy dress to very casual one, depending on the fabric you choose. I made a straight size 6 midi version with tie sleeves without any adjustments in @cottonandsteel cotton from @stonemountainfabric. Making this dress was so rewarding! And yes, I also love This dress has pockets!

Natalia – View A

Carol @chatterstitch | This is a size 16, I interfaced the waist ties but not the sleeve ties.

Sia Dress Pattern
Carol – View A

Hilda @sew.h_factor | I love a V-neck dress, especially the one that comes with a tie belt! The mini version of Sia dress is the perfect summer dress that will make you feel a bit fancy and cute. I managed to sew this dress on and off over 2 days, despite all the distractions of Covid-19 constant news! I made this dress in size 4 with a couple of adjustments. I shorten the skirt (I am 157cm tall) and I added a couple of buttons to reduce that deep V-neckline to make it a little more modest and wearable. Before winter comes, I might just have to get as much wear out of this little beauty each time I need to get my essentials from the shop!

Sia Dress
Hilda – View B

Nadia @nadiaseostyles | I made the mini with tie sleeves in size 8. No modifications were made. I think this is a dress that would flatter anyone who wears it. I absolutely adore it.

Sia Dress Pattern
Nadia – View B

Marzena @marzena.kolaczek | When Taree showed us her first version of Sia Dress it took my breath away! I decided immediately that this dress will be mine… and there it is! I chose size 4 (and it fits perfect!), and midi version with cute tied sleeves. These details are so charming! I love everything in this dress. Thank you so much Taree 🙂

Sia Dress Pattern
Marzena – View A

Anna @sew.lala | This fabric was just waiting for this pattern for a couple of years. I did a mix of the lined an unlined version due to the lace fabric choice. The tie sleeves midi version has been love at first sight and i could not be happier with the outcome. I skipped the side seam splits and closed the front a little bit more. A comfy breezy dress that can be dressed up and down as you like. Just perfect.

Sia Dress Pattern
Anna – View A front bodice hack.

Deidre sewhotmommi.com | I love the femininity and versatility of this pattern. For my fabric, I chose a twill and added a lining which gave my version a dressier look. Made in a size 6, only one minor adjustment was needed. The pattern is well drafted with clear, thorough instructions. I absolutely love how the dress looks with the fitted waist and deep neckline. Taree did a fantastic job and it was great supporting a new pattern launch.

Sia Dress Pattern
Deidre – View A with sleeve hack

Cass @craftprofessor | I love so much about this dress! It was fun to make and has several fun design features. My favorite feature is the plunging neckline that makes it flattering and a little sexy, but it’s also super comfy!! I can swing my arms around!

Sia Dress Pattern
Cass – View D with sleeve hack.

Mariane @madebymariane | This dress is so fun. And has has so many fun features. I Made a size 10 with with no adjustments to size. I did just hand sew the front closed a bit since I don’t really do low cut. It helped me slow down my sewing and fine tune my craft. It has such fun features. Like the ties on the sleeves and the waist tie that you can tie in back or front, Invisible zipper, pleats in cool places, slits on the side(for more bike riding movement!) this is such a perfect spring summer dress pattern! But I’m sure you could Hack it to be longer and have longer sleeves for fall. Hmm, I just might have to do that! I’m glad I choose this fabric to make this dress out of! Taree did such an amazing job to detail with this pattern testing! I hope you all enjoy making it as much as I did!

Sia Dress Pattern
Mariane – View A

Georgia @georgias_poftfolio | I made view D, lined, in a size 6, and with the waist tie. The design is super flattering and can be easily modified to your liking, I removed 1” from the bodice length to bring the waist band up to my natural waist and it sat beautifully! I made the lined version because my fabric was slightly sheer, choosing this method does add more difficulty but taking it slow and putting your maximum effort in will give you the maximum reward at the end!

Georgia – View D with sleeve hack.

Denise @denise.does | The Sia dress is a such a nice sew. I made the size 22 in version 3 and I love the way it fits me. It’s a style that I can see wearing to all types of occasions. I love the tie sleeves and they are put together in an interesting way. The pattern includes lovely finishes even in the unlined version.”

Sia Dress Pattern
Denise – View B

Christine @createandpray | The Sia dress is literally my new favorite dress (and soon to be yours too) for the Spring and Summer! No lie! The design details from the sleeve and waist ties to the bodice pleats elevates this dress to create a flattering silhouette for many shapes and sizes for any occasion. Not to mention this dress has pattern hacking potential which I value in a pattern. I most enjoy that I can be comfortable in this dress and still feel sexy for date night. You nailed it Taree!

Sia Dress Pattern
Christine – View A

Victoria @victorialucilleanne | This pattern is an absolute gem! It was VERY quick to make the unlined version, but it is also nice that there is an option of a lining if you wanted to spend a little more time or use sheer fabric! I love the fit and I actually would not change anything about it. I made a size 4 and with the puffed sleeves. I loved the midi length although I cannot wait to make another shorter version with the tie sleeves!

Sia Dress Pattern
Victoria – View C

Cindy @cilearnstomake | I feel so privileged to have tested the Sia dress! As a confident beginner sewist, I think this dress is the right amount of challenge for me! I did the unlined version (I will attempt the lined version next time!) and a size 18. I successfully put in an invisible zipper and shortened the bodice and dress to make it fit me better, I’m 5’2. I suggest making a toil of the bodice to make sure everything hits at the right spot. I think this dress can be flattering on everyone. Size 18 was a little loose on me and it made it so comfortable. The instructions were really good, but as the beginner sewist I am, I did put my seam ripper to use a time or two. Overall, I love the Sia dress! I will definitely make more use of it once it gets warmer here, even if we’ll still be self-isolating 🙂

Sia Dress Pattern
Cindy – View B

Erin Sixteen Stitches | Read all about Erin’s make on her blog.

Sia Dress Pattern
Erin – View B

Martha @garichild | Martha made a size 22 in a beautiful print. 

Martha – View D

Cortney @s.is.for.sew | Cortney made a size 6 in a beautiful print.

Cortney – View A

18 amazing pattern testers who made 18 beautifully unique Sia Dress’s. The Sia Dress PDF pattern is now available online through my PDF Pattern Store. I hope you love your Sia Dress as much as we all do.

SIA DRESS PDF PATTERN BY TAREE MARSH

FABRIC

This dress is best suited to a fabric that is soft and drapes well. Consider using light to mid weight fabrics such as: linen, linen blends, cotton & cotton gauze. Or for a softer silhouette consider polyester, viscose, rayon, tencel, silk or blends of. The surface texture of a crepe or a crinkle is also a great option.

Lining pattern pieces and directions are provided for this pattern. Choose a lining that has similar properties to your main fabric so that they work together in your garment.

NOTIONS

  • 56cm (22″) invisible zipper
  • coordinating thread
  • 20cm light weight fusing
  • 10mm (3/8”) buttons. 7 for the midi length, 5 for the mini length
  • 6mm (1/4″) elastic only for puffed sleeve views B and D
  • 1 x hook & eye

This pattern is now available for purchase through the PDF PATTERN SHOP

This pattern is now available for purchase in the PDF PATTERN SHOP

How to make the Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti Fabrics

The Sadie Slip Dress pattern by Tessuti came into my life through recommendation from our amazing sewing community. I love how we all share knowledge about patterns and making to help each other make better making choices. I needed a slip dress for under my sheer Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Company as seen in my previous post.

In the Tessuti Pattern range my measurements match that of a size XS. Having sewn a few of their patterns I was fairly confident this size would be perfect for me. I am an Australian size 10 & USA size 6.

My first Sadie Slip Dress was made from a nude colour polyester satin that was dead stock from a local designer. I cut the fabric on the bias and increased the facing size by 2cm. This was another recommendation from a fellow sewer to prevent the facing from popping out. I don’t use violene when I sew but if you have problems with stretching neck edges I highly recommend using the violene as per the pattern instructions.

I sewed the side seams of the garment using the recommended french seaming method. The strap length measurements specified in the pattern also worked well for me. It is very important to understitch the neck facing and make sure it is well pressed. My slip was finished off with an 8mm double turn hem.

The fit of my slip dress was perfect. This sparked the idea to remake this pattern for my girlfriends 40th birthday that had a dress code of white. I had purchased a piece of Harper sand washed Viscose Linen blend from Potter & Co during their pre Christmas sale that was the perfect fabric for this style of dress.

Given the dress is white it needed to be lined and I also wanted to add side splits to give it a casual summer floaty feel. My next problem was I didn’t have enough fabric to cut an outer and lining layer and I didn’t want to incorporate an alternate fabric just in case it didn’t drape and flow in the same way.

After multiple attempts of trying to lay the pattern pieces so they would all fit I made the decision (with the help of my partner who doesn’t understand fabric grains) to cut the dress on the straight grain. I took into the consideration the natural stretch and drape of this fabric and was relatively confident it would be fine.

Given the addition of the side splits on the dress I didn’t use the french seam technique. Instead I individually overlooked the side seam from the hem to a point 5cm after the end of the side split. I then sewed the side seams together with the 1.5cm seam allowance. The remainder of the side seams were overlocker together and the spilt finished with a double turn hem.

The lining was used to finish the neck edge instead of the facing. If the dress was not white I would have fused a section at the top of the lining to stabilise the neck edge. I opted not to do this as I don’t like the look of the fusing piece being seen through to the outer garment.

I cut the lining 2.5cm shorter at the hem and finished the hem on the outer and lining fabric with an 8mm double turn hem. Then it was time to see if my decision to cut on the straight grain instead of the bias was the right decision. Thankfully the dress fits and drapes beautifully and the side seam split would have been more difficult to manage if it was cut on the bias as well.

I only recommend cutting this dress on the straight grain if you fabric has a natural straight grain stretch, is really drapey and has a little bit of weight to pull it down. And as a last resort. I am a D cup and was concerned how it would sit over my bust not being cut on the bias and again I am happy with the fit in this area.

I am a massive fan of the Tessuti Pattern range. I love the hand crafted and hand graded nature of these patterns. The pattern instructions are always very visual and very detailed and the Sadie Slip Dress is no exception. This pattern will definitely get some repeat usage in the future.

As always my garment was finished off with a one of a kind woven label from the beautiful Kylie And The Machine label collection. This dress is truly one of a kind that I will cherish for many years to come.

How to make the Karlene Dress by Fibre Mood

The Karlene Dress

The Karlene Dress is the first Fibre Mood pattern that I have sewn and I must say it didn’t disappoint. This dress is part of Edition 8 of the sewing magazine that was released this week. I was lucky enough to be gifted a copy of this pattern prior to its release.

The Karlene Dress

Fibre Mood describe this dress as date ready, dreamy and feminine. I think they have summed it up perfectly. The first step was to find a fabric that resonated that dreamy and feminine vibe. I found a beautiful Rayon Crepe at Spotlight Stores and it is currently on special for $12/mt. I feel in love with the vintage feel of this fabric. The print has a water colour painting feel to it. It is a little see through in daylight but completely fine when wearing in side. Overall I think it’s a beautiful crepe with a great handle and drape.

The Karlene Dress

Fibre Mood patterns can come with or without seam allowance. I selected the pattern that included seam allowance. The pattern pieces are all numbered but they are not labelled with a name or cutting instructions. To help in the cutting out process I labeled all of the pieces myself using the pattern instructions as a guide just to make sure everything was clear prior to cutting. After comparing my body measurements with the pattern chart I cut the size S pattern.

The Karlene Dress

I didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern and you can see the finished length here. I am 174cm tall. The pattern instructions were methodical and presented in a clear manner. I only hand sew as a last resort and ditch stitched the neck facing down as not to hand sew the facing.

The Karlene Dress

And did I mention this dress also has pockets! I love a pocket. It gives me somewhere to put my awkward arms when I’m not sure what else to do with them. Take your time with your gatherers to make sure they are even. This will improve the overall finish of your dress.

The Karlene Dress

The dress pattern comes with a self fabric belt. It can be worn without the belt if you prefer that super floaty look or any other belts you may have in your wardrobe as pictured above. It could be dressed up or down with sandals or heels. Or you could go for that casual vibe with a pair a sneakers.

The Karlene Dress

The sleeves push up over my elbow to create a 3/4 sleeve look or can be worn down. The sleeve opening when worn down is a little big for me and the sleeve slips down over my hand which is a little annoying. It’s something I will be able to easily fix by adding a little bit of elastic to the sleeve cuff bind. When I make the dress again I will make the sleeve opening slightly smaller just so it doesn’t slip over my hand.

The Karlene Dress

I finished my dress off with a MADE WITH LOVE AND SWEAR WORDS woven label by Kylie And The Machine. It probably wasn’t the most appropriate label for this make as no swear words happened during the making process. I just loved the colours of the label with the colours of the dress. Fibre Mood have labelled this pattern with 2 stars out of 5 for difficulty and I think they are pretty spot on. There are no zippers. The most difficult tasks are the neck facing and sleeve bind finish.

The Karlene Dress

I feel very honoured to be part of the launch of this pattern and it is a pattern that I can happily recommend. It is very versatile in the way it can be worn which I think caters for varying tastes in style and body sizes.

The Karlene Dress

How to make the Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Company

Wilder Gown

I am going to start by saying this make started out as a gamble for me. I brought the Wilder Gown Pattern soon after it’s release admiring the beautiful makes of Victoria Smith, I Seam Sew Happy xx, Trine Schroeder and the Pattern Cover from Friday Pattern Company. I purchased my fabric and printed the PDF pattern several months ago but other projects kept taking precedence over starting this one.

Wilder Gown

My fabric was dead stock from a local designer. It was a score. The fabric is a printed 100% silk georgette and cost $40 for 4m. The print itself is super interesting with boarders and panels. I really thought about print direction and pattern placement for each pattern piece to make the most of the intricate design. And I’m slightly obsessed with symmetry.

Wilder Gown

I used both the straight grain and cross grain to achieve the pattern placement I wanted. It is ok to do this if you are trying to achieve a specific look with your fabric prints as there is little difference between fabric on the straight grain and cross grain. Please don’t apply this principle with bias grain as the bias grain has very different properties.

Wilder Gown

You will use slightly more fabric when being particular with pattern placement but it’s worth it when you are using boarder and panel prints. Also really think about symmetry and how different patterns will look when placed horizontally as opposed to vertically and vice versa.

Wilder Gown

I cut my Wilder Gown a size smaller than the pattern recommended as this is a full dress pattern. The pattern is very well notched with the notches all lining up. I commend Friday Pattern Company on their detailed sewing instructions. They were methodical and logical which is perfect for the beginner sewer.

Wilder Gown

This is a pattern that combines maximum impact with simplicity. It is a good beginner / intermediate pattern with the degree of complexity in fabric choice. The more stable your fabric the easier it is too sew. Keeping in mind I think this pattern works best with drapier, lighter weight fabrics.

Wilder Gown

Take your time with the gathering process. I always divide my gathering stitches into 2 or 3 sections depending on the width of the panels. It is much easier to pull your gather threads a shorter distance and if a thread breaks you don’t have to start from scratch.

Wilder Gown

To get the best results on any gathered garment make sure your gathers are even all the way around. Avoid having clumps of gathers and then nothing at all. Always use 2 rows of long stitch for gather stitches and never try to short cut by using one. The results are simply not the same. You can also get a gathering foot for your machine but in my experience it is hard to control the amount of gathers. I will always take a short cut if there is one worth taking but when it comes to gathers I find the time consuming, old fashion method to be the most affective and therapeutic.

Wilder Gown

A big shout out to all those who recommend the Sadie Slip Dress Pattern by Tessuti Patterns for my undergarment. It was perfect and a great sew. By recommendation I increased my facing width by 1.5cm to prevent it from popping out. I also understitched and pressed the facing extra well. The Sadie Slip Dress is the perfect length to work with Wilder Gown.

Wilder Gown

If you prefer to wear garments less full you can accentuate your waistline by belting this dress. I opted to wear with a shorter slip when belting my dress.

Wilder Gown

I have styled my dress with my new Zimmerman Canvas High Tops as I’m slightly obsessed with these shoes at the moment. I have also worn with heels to create an evening look. Strappy sandals would also be great for a casual Sunday lunch look.

Wilder Gown

Long story short, the gamble paid off with this make and I’ve ended up with a dress that I love. It’s always hit and miss in the world of home made garments. That is part of the journey and part of the fun. Don’t stop experimenting, don’t start playing it to safe. Mistakes are a good thing and most things are salvageable even if it’s in a different form.

Wilder Gown