Today marks a milestone in the Grace PDF Pattern world. Today the Grace Dress turns 1 year old. I decided to make a special birthday Grace that incorporates the shoulder frill to share the pattern and sewing process with you.
Abby has been wowing us with all her beautiful Grace variations and after seeing her shoulder frill I knew I needed to share it with you all. Below you will find a file that you can download with the shoulder frill pattern. I have also included this pattern piece in the Grace PDF Pattern if you decide to purchase. The original Grace Dress come with a button shoulder strap but for the shoulder frill version I have used a fixed strap. Please see the chart below for the fixed strap width and length.
You will need to add additional seam allowance to the curve frill edge if you are not finishing with a baby lock / lettuce edge finish. If you are finishing your frill edge with a rolled hem add 1.2cm for a 6mm double turn finish.
To create a dress similar to mine you will also need the Grace PDF Pattern pieces from View B, minus the sleeve strap and pockets are optional. If you want to add a 3rd lower frill to the bottom of the dress reduce the length of the 2nd tier by 10cm and cut an additional 2 pieces of fabric 8cm wide if you are finishing with a babylock hem or 10cm wide if you are finishing with a narrow rolled hem that is twice the length of the hem opening on tier 2. I also added an additional lace trim to the bottom of my 1st tier. This trim was cut 5cm wide and the length of the hem opening of the 1st tier. The width of this trim can vary depending on what you are using. This width suited the lace I had on hand.
To create the shoulder frill, finish the curved edge with a baby lock / lettuce edge finish on your overlocker or with a small rolled hem. Then add 2 rows of gather stitch to the straight edge of the sleeve frill. Pull gathers up to be 5cm shorter than the shoulder strap. With right sides together, pin the frill to the shoulder strap 2.5cm from each end. Baste stitch in place 8mm in from the edge. Fold the strap to be right sides together in half with the frill in between. Sew in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Pull the strap right sides out through the end.
Then sew darts in the front bodice and your side seams together as per the Grace PDF pattern instructions. With right sides together and the frill facing towards the shoulder attach your straps to the main bodice before bagging out with the bodice lining again as per the pattern instructions.
From this point on you can follow the instructions of the Grace PDF Pattern until you get to the skirt.
When you get to sewing the skirt you can add a lace trim between the 1st and 2nd tier. It will be the same length as the 1st tier hem. Then gather the 2nd tier to fit.
I added a 3rd frill to my skirt. After checking the length once the 2nd tier was attached I decide to reduce the length to of the 2nd tier by 10cm before adding the 7cm wide lower frill. I finished the 3rd tier with a baby lock / lettuce edge hem finish before gathering it with my overlocker and attaching to the skirt.
My skirt fabric was see through so I lined my skirt. I cut the lining fabric 7cm shorter than the skirt and slightly wider than the 1st tier to ensure I had enough leg room to comfortably walk. I gathered the lining and attached it to the inside of the main skirt before attaching the bodice lining.
Finally I updated the tie to pull through at the center front instead of the side. I used a thin piece of leather as the tie with wood beads to finish the end.
I am in the midst of Winter here in Australia and love this dress styled with a denim jacket and high tops.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions about this hack. I am always happy to help.