I am no stranger to this pattern having previously made two pairs of the cropped flare. I have also made two pairs of the Persephone Pant by Anna Allen and felt my hand made wardrobe was swamped with versions of a cropped flare jean. I have been drawn to a Mom or straight leg jean lately that is still slightly cropped and thought I would give the straight leg version of the Dawn Jean a go.
Having toiled this pattern previously and over fitted on my second pair I decided to stick with the original pattern in the size 8 which is perfect for my measurements and shape. I measured the in leg length of my favourite store brought jeans I own to work out the ideal length for these jeans. It’s best to work with an in leg length as your rise height may very from jean to jean. The in leg length will give you a more accurate measurement to follow.
It is also important to cut all patterns in corduroy in the one direction. Corduroy is a one way fabric and the pile can be brushed up or down. I prefer to cut my corduroy with the pile direction brushing down towards the hem of the pant.
I purchased a piece of yummy vanilla coloured stretch corduroy during Potter & CO’s pre Christmas sale that has been waiting for the perfect project. It is 98% Cotton, 2 % Elastane which gives the pant just a nice little bit of movement for fit and food. The only adjustment I made was cutting the waistband on the opposite grain to that recommended on the pattern. I wanted the cord lines to run vertically and not horizontal on the waistband.
My biggest issue with sewing jeans in the past has been the topstitching. My machine has really struggled with this in the past always leaving me disappointed with the finish of the garment. The inside stitch tension was loose and messy. It finally occurred to me that I needed tightened the top thread tension on my machine. The ideal top tension on my machine for top stitching with a topstitching thread is 8. This has been a game changer and now the inside of my jeans is as beautiful as the outside.
Megan Nielsen Patterns also have great little hardware trims packages for purchase which gave my jeans that professional finish. I am a massive fan of matt tin trims and think this colour works beautifully with the vanilla coloured cord. After washing my jeans the vegan leather patch did change colour, lost some of it’s wording and became stiff but I don’t mind the change in appearance. Kylie And The Machine also has the cutest side tab labels that was perfect for the back pocket.
Megan’s pattern are impeccable and very professional. They are beautifully notched and the instructions are well written and clear. I also understand she has a comprehensive range of video tutorials to accompany her patterns. I have not watched or used them due to my extensive knowledge on construction but imagine they would be the perfect companion to those sewers taking on the challenge of sewing jeans for the first time.
The thought off sewing jeans can seem daunting if you have not done it before. It is a project that will take time but the sense of accomplishment once you finish is amazing. These jeans are probably the best jeans I have ever made. I took my time and the details and finish are really satisfying. These jeans are a make that I am truly proud of.