There is something very rewarding and satisfying about drafting your own patterns from blocks. I hope I am not repeating words from an earlier blog on this topic but self drafting is something I am very passionate about.
It is a dream of mine that everyone who would like to draft their own patterns has access to a good block set without having to go through the tedious task of developing them from scratch. It is a dream of mine to be able to share how I create my self drafted pieces from blocks so that you too can do the same.
My latest sewing project was inspired by Faithfull The Brand. They have the most gorgeous dresses, however, the price point is a little on the high side and I am on a mission to buy less and make more. It is my aim to end up with a wardrobe that is 90% me made one day.
I used my 2 dart front bodice, back bodice, front skirt and back skirt blocks to create this pattern. Self drafted projects do take longer to complete than using purchased patterns. This dress involved creating each pattern piece through slashing and spreading, pivoting and reducing. After each pattern piece is created roughly they need to be re traced and seam allowance added. I also keep the original pieces without seam allowance so I can easily make any adjustments after the toile stage.
Once the initial pattern is drafted it’s onto the toile. I like to make a neat toile so I can really check and analyse the fit of the garment. I don’t overlock my toile unless it is in a fabrication that I am hoping will end up being a wearable toile. I write on my toile with a sharpie all of the adjustments I am going to make.
The next step is to adjust any pattern pieces that need adjustments post toile stage. It is so important to adjust pattern pieces without seam allowance. If you don’t, you are not actually adjusting the pattern in the correct place and the full adjustment will not be actioned.
You may need to toile for a second time, however, in the case of this dress I was confident in moving straight to my final fabric.
Given the sheer nature of the fabric the dress is fully lined. It features a faux front button placket with entry to the dress via a back invisible zipper. Ties at the sleeve cuff and waist, a hook and bar for modesty at the front neck, side slant pockets and side seam splits.
I’m positive this dress is going to get some solid wear time this summer and I’m also going to turn this pattern into a jumpsuit sometime in the future.